So here I am in Hoi An finally, sitting in the hotel lobby at 10.30 PM and watching the geckos on the wall doing their work while writing this update.
Indeed, I think the geckos don`t really receive money for working here, but the are probably quite convinced about the food. I already thought about getting one (gecko, not a portion of the food) for myself. First they look kind of cute (they are much smaller than I had imagined) and second they keep the flies and mozzies at bay. So they have – at least – a double function, as far as I could figure out so far.
Apropos food: indeed, Vietnamese food is quite excellent. It always comes a bit of a surprise to our taste, but it is always good. OK, I admit, I won`t go for the dry squid, even if if it tastes only like salty chewing gum. But there are other yummies, like the fried tuna on banana leaf with lemon sauce I had for dinner tonight.
I spent all afternoon in the heart of the town and it seems it completey consists of cafés, shops with artisanry or one of the 350+ tailors here. I borrowed a bike from the hotel and did really enjoy my time here so far.
In a way, this afternoon did a lot of bringing my good mood back to me. Frankly, I was getting a bit frustrated with my first few days here, probably just a coincidence of some circumstances:
cold, overcast and foggy weather for days after three weeks of sunshine, not the best hotel, cyclo drivers who speak not enough english or are not able to read the map, but expect a serious tipp after taking you to the wrong hotel and the permanent overcharging and also hardly any willingness to come to a realistic price even with negotiating. Thais and Cambodians to me seem a bit more willing to see it really as a game, where both parties give a bit and you come to a price that is okay for everyone. And then the (tourist) bus ride to Hoi An was not very comfortable either, my knees being constantly at the back of the front seat. But enough complaints.
I started out at Hué, the former capital of Vietnam as it used to be the royal residence. It`s quite interesting if you arrive here at a former army airport – quite a difference to a „civilian“ airport.
In fact the Citadell here in Hué (or what is left of it after heavy bombing from both US and Vietcong) here is worth seeing, just for the sheer size of the the area. And also emperor Minh Mang`s tomb is worth a visit, although I probably would not book the boat trip a second time, but rather rent a driver for a couple of hours (same price, more effective).
Also the local market here, just to see the things (but expect to be given prices that are at least 5-6 times higher than the real price, so better start negotiating at 10% of what is asked for) is very interesting. Imagine stalls that maybe have 2 square meters, the goods are piled hip- or corpse high and the vendors partly sitting on top of their stuff. Really, worth seeing, but prepare for hard bargaining. I for example bought a new bag for 12 USD, thinking it was cheap. Today, here in Hoi An I took it to a tailor, because the first seams were givng in already and she was shocked about the price: she had bought the same bag for her brother for just 2 USD. Well, another lesson learned 😉